by LINDEN GROSS, One Stop Writing Shop

 

I heard three things right off the bat when Blue Pine Kitchen and Bar opened on Century in Bend where the Players Bar & Grill used to be.

Started and manned by a group of restaurant folks, it’s a real foodie’s joint serving intriguing small plates.

It’s open late. Not just late for Bend. Really late. Midnight is their early closing time. On Friday and Saturday, they’re open until 2am.

You can get frogs legs there.

I’ve never been a monster frogs legs fan. I’d much rather eat snails. As wrong as those options actually sound when you think about either for too long, the fact that a new eatery in town actually offers frogs legs makes me happy. For that matter, so does the fact that it’s open so late, even though I’m usually not. And restaurant people? As a former waitress and bartender, that’s a huge plus. So I arrived at Blue Pine with enthusiastic anticipation.

I realized even before I entered gastropub, as Blue Pine calls itself, that it’s still a work in progress. Vintage window panes are stacked along the walkway. An outdoor seating area lined with newly-planted pots still looks more like a reclaimed parking lot than a patio. But I immediately responded to the atmosphere both in terms of quirky décor and friendly service.

With six of us at the table, my dining companions and I could order with abandon, and that’s exactly what we proceeded to do.

The kale salad mixed with baby arugula and tossed with warm grilled onions took me by surprise. For starters, the kale was tender (thanks to a light steam) and the sweet onions provided a lovely foil to the greens’ bitter notes.
The classic steamed mussels with big pieces of pancetta and a serious dose of cream made me sigh with pleasure. I loved the contrasts of salt vs. sweet and chewy pig vs. silky mussel. Dipping the accompanying slices of crusty, grilled bread into the creamy broth was a high point.

So was the sliced beef tenderloin served with a sauce made from purple pelisse fingerling potatoes, along with two house-made roasted jalapeño and corn emulsions. The meat was super tender and flavorful by itself. Swiping it through the rings of sauces on the beautifully-presented plate was so tasty that one member of our party, who shall remain nameless, actually indulged in public plate licking once the beef was gone. My only beef with the beef was that I wanted more.

The burger was the biggest surprise. Truth be told, we ordered it in part because it had been recommended online and in part because of my 18-year-old nephew. When it arrived, we argued over whether it was four or five inches tall. There was no argument about the burger itself. “We’re in love with your burger,” my friend Leah announced to manager Jill. With patties made from a mix of house-ground brisket, chuck and tenderloin, why wouldn’t we be? The fact that they toss the greens on the burger in vinaigrette and add cheddar cheese, bacon jam and picked fennel and celeriac just puts it over the top.

To be honest, we tried a number of small plates that were less successful, including the frogs legs served in a garlic sauce that needed more cooking time. People always claim that frogs legs taste like chicken, but I found them a bit fishy.
In addition, several of those in our party felt that most of the food was slightly under salted. Having worked with a writing coach client and cardiac surgeon on his book Salt Kills, I had mixed feelings about that. My palate agreed, but my brain applauded the lower sodium content. Salt shakers on the table could provide an easy solution.

The desserts were all good, but the two I’d order again are the Tarte Tatin and the Mocha Pot de Crème. Both are positively decadent.

Blue Pine’s menu changes frequently based on what’s fresh. As the chefs settle in and the restaurant becomes more established, I’m betting that the food, which already shows lots of promise, will get better and better.

 

Blue Pine Kitchen and Bar
25 SW Century Drive, Bend
541-389-2558
Owners: Chef Matt Neltner, Jill Moore Neltner & Josh Maquet
Hours: Tuesday – Thursday 11am – midnight;
Friday – Saturday 11am – 2am

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