by LINDEN GROSS, One Stop Writing Shop
I really like Drake. I like the look of the restaurant. I like the staff—the servers are as fun as they are informative. And I like the concept of an upscale diner with food that blends the best of Americana with French cuisine. Case in point, their burger. Sure you can get a terrific basic cheeseburger, or you can add toppings ranging from a hen’s egg and pear kimchi to pork belly and roasted bone marrow. Want to add a milk shake to that? Why not try the Apple Pie Milk Shake with maple ice cream, caramelized apples and pie crust or the Salted Caramel Milk Shake with candied pecans.
See what I mean about upscale diner?
On the other hand, I knew a new chef had been brought in, which can be a good or a bad thing. So it was with anticipation and some nervousness that I joined three friends there for dinner.
I need not have worried. Chef John Gurnee, who attended culinary school and worked as an executive chef in the Bay Area before moving to Bend, is a master.
My friends and I shared four starters. While we couldn’t agree on which two were our favorites, the huge Dungeness Crab Cake with its crispy crust, moist chock-full-of-crab interior, saffron aioli and accompanying citrus-fennel salad took top billing for all of us. My companions also fell in love with meaty, tender ribs, dubbed “meat candy” by one of the two. “I could eat five of those by myself,” she said. That would be hard since I’d fight her for them.
As much as I enjoyed the ribs, I couldn’t get over the Grilled Maitake Mushroom. The char on the exterior along with the mushroom itself made me feel as if I’d been whisked off to a campfire in the woods. The spicy and citrusy yuzu aioli provided a creamy taste pop that took the dish right over the top.
Thin slices of fresh fennel also helped set apart the Belgian endive salad with apples and Rogue blue cheese, served with a tangy mustard seed vinaigrette. Delightfully refreshing and downright delicious.
We were on a culinary roll, which would continue throughout the rest of the meal.
As always, we shared the entrees as well. The Gulf Shrimp & Grits with roasted peppers, caramelized onion, bacon, sweet corn and Tabasco pan sauce combined perfectly melded subtle flavors with the perfect comfort food.
The Game of the Day was duck served with roasted root vegetables, bacon, Brussel sprouts, white beans and confit garlic. Yes that’s right: garlic that’s been slowly baked in fat. “I feel like I’m in France and went to dinner at someone’s humble but lovely home,” one of my friends announced. There aren’t many restaurants in town, or anywhere else for that matter, that can transport you like that.
Surprisingly, the ample Oregon Natural Ribeye was the weakest of the dishes we tried. I liked the green peppercorn-brandy sauce and the meat was tender, flavorful and clearly top quality. But I missed that sear which usually accentuates the flavor of the beef. An easy fix for sure. The rest of the dish, however, was divine. At every turn during our meal we realized that Drake’s accompaniments—in this case Juniper Jungle farm potatoes—aren’t just an afterthought. Carefully chosen to complement each entrée, they actually shine on their own. Wow, does that work!
Finally we tried the West Coast Cioppino. Truth be told, I’m not usually a cioppino fan; the fish stew is just too tomato-y for me. Not here. Imagine mussles, shrimp and rock fish served with ground Italian sausage and potatoes in a saffron-shellfish broth with aioli and an oven-charred, crusty baguette for dipping. It tasted like seafood paella without the rice. Stunningly good.
We ended our feast with the aforementioned apple pie milk shake and a small chocolate stout cake served with fresh hop dulce, porter gelato and popcorn cream.
Really?
Yup. Check it out for yourself and you’ll see.
Drake
801 NW Wall Street, Bend
541-306-3366
Owner: Ted Swigert
Hours: Open daily 11:30am–9pm (10pm on Friday & Saturday)
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