by LINDEN GROSS, One Stop Writing Shop
It had been one of those days. I was ready for a cocktail. Really ready. The friends I met certainly didn’t argue. As usual, we opted for the house drink specials. At Pure Kitchen, those all have a tropical twist. My Thai Chili Side Car, a creamy, slightly spicy mixture of brandy and tuaca muddled with Thai chili and lemon, provided exactly the comfort I was looking for. Tasting all the other drinks—a coconut Cosmo, a pineapple mojito and the potentially lethal Thunder Devil (think Long Island Ice Tea with Thai Coffee)—didn’t hurt either.
Bolstered by our fabulous cocktails, we ordered quickly. The fun part of being at a small plates bar is that you can choose a bunch of dishes. We kicked off round one with The Crying Tiger, slices of grilled hanger steak cooked medium rare and served with spicy tamarind atop two grilled asparagus. The meat was so tender and flavorful that happy grunts replaced the usual commentary. The ultra crispy house-cut fries were even more memorable.
“I feel like I’m in a chip shop,” said my Canadian friend.
“These are happiness,” said my friend who usually doesn’t indulge in carbs.
We tried the ground pork and shrimp dumplings next, which actually looked more like meatballs sitting in wonton cups. The initial hit of ginger and garlic was rounded out by the sweet soy sauce and a bit of spice. “Oh so good,” was the verdict.
A hint of mild curry livened up bite-sized, crispy, golden empanadas stuffed with chicken, carrot, potato, onion and mozzarella.
Chilled tuna tartar with lemongrass and ginger provided a nice balance of sweet and spicy, with diced cucumbers imparting a crunchy contrast to the silky sushi-grade tuna squares.
The fresh and crunchy Lettuce-Wrapped Spicy Lime Pork showcased grilled meat spiced with chili, cilantro, lemongrass and toasted rice. Although labeled as a two-chili dish, we all agreed that it only rated a quarter of a chili. So if you like spice, you might want to make that clear when you order.
Our only real quibble with round one came with the Duck Crepe. We disagreed about the crepe, which three out of four found a little thick. We all agreed that we would have dumped the deli mustard that, along with hoisin sauce, dotted the plate, since it overpowered the crispy duck.
Still hungry, we ordered round two. We had wanted to try the Steamed Garlic Ginger Rice on the first go-around and thankfully corrected the oversight this time. What a treat!
“That’s seriously good,” I said.
“I love the rice!” exclaimed my no-carb friend. “I love the rice!” She would repeat those exact words two more times.
In short, make sure to order the rice.
The Calamari Super Bowl was another hit. A plentiful amount of calamari, lightly fried and tender, was served with a house-made, sweet (but not too sweet) chili sauce. Our only suggestion would have been to add a second aioli-style sauce.
The Duck Salad featured a generous amount of grilled, crispy, medium rare duck that this time was allowed to shine, served on a bed of spring greens tossed with red onion, toasted rice and a light, spicy lime vinaigrette dressing.
We had been anticipating the dessert round ever since seeing the options listed on the blackboard at the back of the restaurant. We jumped on the Coconut Waffle with Pandan Custard. The soft green custard infused with Pandan, the leaf of a plant that grows in tropical parts of Asia, tasted like pistachio only better. Crunchy, thick waffles studded with coconut provided the perfect foil, triggering immediate thoughts of Sunday brunch. We also shared the heavenly salted-caramel cheesecake. Need I say more?
Before leaving, we all agreed that as tasty as the food and cocktails had been, the owners’ cheerful attentiveness stood out even more. They treated their patrons like guests. They accommodated the cucumber allergy of one of my fellow diners with deft grace. And despite being under-staffed due to an unexpectedly busy Tuesday night, they remained calm and professional.
We also agreed that the 4pm – 6pm Happy Hour (beers for $3 and appetizers from $2.50 to $6) has got to be one of the better deals in town.
So—what are you waiting for?
Pure Kitchen
550 NW Franklin Ave.
Ste. 118, Bend
541-383-8182
www.purekitchen118.com
Hours: Monday – Friday
11:30am – 2:30pm, 4pm – close; Saturday 11:30am – 3pm, 4pm – close; Sunday 11:30am – 3pm.
Owners: Krit Dangruenrat & wife Bua Karoon
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