by LINDEN GROSS, A&E Feature Writer & One Stop Writing Shop
I’m not sure what I was expecting when I went to dine at Tetherow Grill. A decent dinner, I guess. All I can say is, “Wow, did I ever underestimate that place!” From our server/bartender Evan who has a degree in food science chemistry a fetching sense of humor to Executive Chef Rian Mulligan who looks young enough to be my nephew, Tetherow Grill was a revelation.
The clubhouse the view helped set the scene. When I got out of my car at dusk, a full moon shadowed by wispy clouds lit my way to the entrance. The smoky scent of a wood-burning fire greeted me as I walked through the clubhouse doors, a friendly hostess greeted me the moment I walked into the restaurant. After a short chat at the comfortable, granite-topped bar, she led me to a table by the window. That’s when I noticed all the lights in Bend, which shone bright with the onset of darkness. I’m pretty sure I could see every single one.
Shortly after the arrival of my dining companions, we launched into a h ful of appetizers. The pot stickers—filled with shitake, oyster baby Portobello mushrooms along with scallions, ginger teriyaki sauce—provided an earthy, Asian-influenced taste treat in a crispy wrapper. The accompanying kimchee with its hit of jalapeño was the best I’ve ever had.
The beet salad was equally wonderful, earning a unanimous thumbs up. The creamy herbed goat cheese champagne vinaigrette drizzle provided the perfect complement to the red golden beets. A little too perfect in fact. While I was taking notes after my first couple of bites, my three girlfriends polished off the rest of the salad.
The pan-fried blue mussels stuffed with bacon, lemon zest garlic were also a hit, the flavor reminiscent of a rich, oceany buerre blanc sauce. We weren’t as wild about the lobster-shrimp-crab cakes, which needed more lemon-caper aioli sauce to really work. But the torchon de foie gras made up for the lapse then some. “This is seriously melt in your mouth,” murmured one friend as she savored the decadent paté, offset beautifully by pickled cherries (I want that recipe!) a wild berry couli.
Our entrées proved equally inspiring. “Oh yeah, oh yeah,” exclaimed one of my dining companions over the seared Pacific Steelhead served with grilled spinach rhubarb beurre blanc.
We all shared the Scallops Alfredo as well. I almost hadn’t ordered them because of the name, but don’t be fooled. Perfectly cooked fennel-dusted scallops topped fettuccine coated in parmesan just a splash of cream. Delicious.
After my first bites of the duck confit legs (served with a Madeira demi-glace) followed by mushroom bread pudding, I couldn’t decide which I liked better. I solved the problem by cramming both onto my fork. The memory makes my mouth water even now.
Of course, we had to try a steak. At least three of the four of us did. All I can say is boy did our non-meat eater miss out. The only question the rest of us had was whether the taste or the stunning presentation of the tender, juicy 14-ounce Delmonico steak—served on a Himalayan pink salt platter with sautéed wild mushrooms a Bordelaise sauce—was more memorable.
“I serve comfort food with an elegant twist,” says Chef Mulligan. “As a child, my dad did all the cooking, but he didn’t know how to cook. I make what he made, but it tastes good now.”
I’ll say!
Tetherow Grill, Tetherow Golf Club
61240 Skyline Ranch Road, Bend
541-388-2582
www.tetherow.com/bend-oregon
Food Beverage Manager:
Kevin Gilman
Hours: Lunch 11 am – 5 pm;
Dinner 5 pm – Close