The moment I walked into Latigo, Sisters’ newest fine-dining establishment, I imagined myself living there. I love the wrap-around deck, the high peaked ceiling with its huge rustic wooden beams, the oversized windows, the wood-burning brick fireplace and the romantic vibe. Then I tasted chef-owner Tim Christman’s food and the fantasy stretched to include him cooking for me 24/7.
My friends and I started with two appetizers I’d drive back for any time. The diners at the table kitty-corner to ours agreed.
“Have you tried the smoked salmon? It’s amazing,” one of the two women announced before heading home to Sunriver. Indeed. A mild smoky flavor permeates the crusty, moist chunk of salmon, which is smoked in house and served with a ginger-curry remoulade, caraway toasts and Thai chili glaze.
“One of the best I’ve tasted,” announced my friend Viv, who travels for a living.
“I’m in love with the salmon,” agreed my friend Leah. “I want to take it home.”
The corn and leek chowder soup, which our departing diners also raved about, captured my heart. A perfect pan-seared scallop, ancho chili oil and tarragon oil—two of 30 infused oils Chef Tim has created—and a splash of dry sherry and tarragon vinegar, each contributed to the refrain of flavors that sang to me with each bite of the lightly creamed soup. My three friends and I grabbed pieces of hot, house-baked bread and raced to mop up every drop still left in the bowl we had shared. Need I say more?
While our third appetizer, a beef tenderloin crostini served with chèvre, onion jam and balsamic reduction didn’t work for me due to its sweetness, the beef entrées made up for that and then some.
The filet, served with sautéed local chanterelle and cremini mushrooms and a red wine demi-glace, was about as good as any filet we could remember. I particularly liked the taste spike provided by the accompanying herb-infused oil.
The coffee-cocoa crusted Wagyu—a type of beef famous for its marbling and tenderness—reminded me of a melt-in-your-mouth pot roast only different. That’s what 24 hours of low temperature sous vide (French for “under vacuum”) braising does.
The rack of lamb, topped with sautéed shallot and cranberries with jalapeño gelée, and the duck breast, served with fennel beurre blanc, sage pan jus and pickled blueberries, were equally tender and equally brimming with flavor. Sous vide braising strikes again.
While I did miss the more juicy texture of a pan-seared duck breast, the delicately nuanced and unique flavor profiles of each of our entrées wowed me. So did all the accompaniments—ranging from perfectly al dente asparagus and broccolini to garlic herb smashed potatoes and a medley of Israeli cous cous, red quinoa and orzo. Indeed, each dish seems like its own carefully composed piece of music.
Every musical composition needs a big finale. Saying that ours didn’t disappoint is like saying that Smith Rock is more than just a rock outcropping. We shared a warm apple cobbler served in a tiny cast-iron pan with cinnamon whipped cream and local gelato, as well as a warm dark chocolate soufflé into which we poured raspberry crème anglaise. While the apple cobbler with its semi-firm chunks of apple and Brown Betty-style oat topping was lovely, the chocolate soufflé was downright divine.
“Oh my. Did that really happen?” my friend Leah asked after her fist bite of soufflé. I wanted to answer no and tell her that she’d just imagined the experience so she wouldn’t go back in for another bite. Yes, the chocolate soufflé is that good.
And yes, our experience at Latigo was that good as well. I can’t wait to see how the restaurant’s new lounge, in which they’ll serve cocktails and small plates, measures up. I have high hopes.
Latigo’s Chef Tim reminds me of the European chef-owners I watched in action as a child living in Paris. From the open kitchen he checks in and chats with diners waiting to be seated. He helps his wife Sucy, who handles the front of the house, deliver entrées. And he takes pride in every aspect of his restaurant and his food, refusing to compromise on either. Works for me.
Latigo
370 E. Cascade Ave, Sisters
541-241-4064
latigosisters.com
Owners: Tim and Sucy Christman
Hours: Open daily 5pm–close